Anyone who has ever changed wheels regularly on a track car will understand how much easier it is with studs rather than the standard wheel bolts.
I ran studs on the Golf and they lasted years with zero issues. I’ve seen far too many cheap eBay studs shear, and there is no way I’m scrimping on those. The ones I settled for are AIT bullet-nose studs. I bought the 86mm long ones as they work with spacers if I need them.
The R8 bolt thread is a pretty standard M14x1.5
The higher-quality studs have a raised centre shoulder that allows you to nip them up against the hub. They also have rolled threads instead of the cheaper cut ones.
First job was a quick thread clean-up with a tap and then degrease the holes.
The threads weren’t damaged, but it’s worth cleaning them up so the studs don’t bind when installing.
I use a high-strength threadlock — Loctite 277 works well for me. It’s strong enough to stop the studs loosening when you remove the nuts, but you have to replace them or the drive flange if they are removed.
You can watch loads of YouTube videos telling you the pros and cons of different ways to apply threadlock. My view is that as long as all the thread is covered, you’re sorted — so I put it on the stud and also in the hub threads.
Double-nutting allows the nuts to be locked against each other on the stud.
That then allows the use of a torque wrench to tighten the studs to the specified 140Nm.
Note the excess threadlock pushed out of the thread and running down the face.
It’s easy to wipe off when liquid, less so when it sets….
Studs fitted. Should you run anti-seize grease? Well, I change wheels often and I don’t want the nuts galling on the thread, so it’s a must for me. Yes, you need to drop the torque you nip the nuts up to slightly, but I had the lubed studs on the Golf for eight years with no failures, sticking nuts or snapped studs.
I tighten the nuts to 120Nm, which is the same as for the standard bolts.
Refit the disc and caliper.
The issue I found with these studs is the bullet nose isn’t long enough 
. The whole point of the unthreaded part of the stud is that it centralises the nut so you can’t cross-thread it and can fit them quickly with an impact gun. Unfortunately, it’s a thread too short on these and you can cross-thread them easily, which means I always have to start them by hand first. Not the end of the world, but misses the entire point of bullet-nose studs, in my opinion.
As expected, it’s now far easier to swap wheels without trying to juggle the bolts whilst holding the wheel in place.